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Amazing Watercolor Mixes

Jan Hart Creates Amazing Mixes with Daniel Smith Extra Fine Watercolors

At Daniel Smith, we've always enjoyed our association with Jan Hart. First as a customer and later as a workshop instructor, she has been a big fan of Daniel Smith watercolors and has shared her enthusiasm about them with many a student. This summer, a member of our staff took one of Jan's workshops in Espaņola, New Mexico and was so enthralled that she asked Jan to write an article including her favorite color mixtures and answering the questions students most frequently ask. An expert at color blending and creating atmospheric effects, Jan is an inspiring teacher and a great guide to the marvels of the Southwest.

"I mix pigments on the paper, 140 lb. cold press Lanaquarelle-the first pigment becomes the wetting agent into which I add the second and/or third. I use individual strokes or smears, skipping to allow the under pigment to show through in places, untouched. Often I just watch and enjoy! I really appreciate Daniel Smith's granulating pigments-often for their action instead of color!"

see larger image

Neutral Rock/Earth Mix

Neutral Rock/Earth Mix

I apply the Buff Titanium and immediately add in a side brush of Cobalt Violet-and watch. The Cobalt Violet mixes with the Buff creating subtle, slightly violet granulation.


 

Creamy Pink Earth Mix

Creamy Pink Earth Mix

For a creamy, lush earth color try mixing some Rose Madder Genuine or Transparent Red Oxide into the Buff Titanium.


 

Reticulated Earth Mix

Reticulated Earth Mix

I love to apply Lunar Earth to the paper and immediately wash in some Burnt Sienna or Quinacridone Burnt Orange to brighten the color. Try this with Lunar Red Rock too!


 

Deep Red Earth Mix

Deep Red Earth Mix

I like to mix some staining Quinacridones with a strong sedimentary pigment to create deep red earth tones, adding water to lighten here and there.


 

Dark Tree Mix

Dark Tree Mix

This is my absolute favorite for evergreens. In the pan, I mix a rather heavy puddle of Ultramarine Turquoise and Burnt Sienna or Quinacridone Burnt Orange-pushing it towards the orange at one side and towards the turquoise on the other. Evergreens need the variety from the sunny orange side to the shadowed side.


 

Sunlit Tree Mix

Sunlit Tree Mix

Using New Gamboge, Quinacridone Gold or another yellow as a wetting agent, I lay it in for the sunlit edge of the tree. Then I add #5 into it using dancing gesture strokes, working from light to shade, orange to blue.


 

Lively Sap Green Mix

Lively "Sap" Green Mix

Applying Nickel Azo into Cobalt Blue is so exciting-it dives and pushes the blue, creating a wonderful variegated mix.


 

Dark Tree Mix with Red

Dark Tree Mix with Red:

Adding some staining deep red/maroon to Ultramarine Turquoise creates a very dark neutral and can also make a too-green tree look natural.


 

Dual-Colored Sky Mix

Dual-Colored Sky Mix

To create a late afternoon sky with a light horizon, try Aureolin over all and wash in Cobalt Blue at the top.


 

Cast Shadow Mix

Cast Shadow Mix

This transparent blue/lavender darkens but allows the underlying formation to show through. It can also be used as a wetting agent to add some touches of additional colors.


 

 

Soft Blue - Lavender Neutral Mix

Soft Blue/Lavender Neutral Mix:

Try it! What a great neutral!


 

Translucent Gray Seattle Sky Mix

Translucent Gray Seattle Sky Mix:

My three favorites!


 

Sagebrush Mix

Sagebrush Mix:

A light wash of Cerulean with Cobalt Violet added creates just the pale lavender gray of sage, especially over an Aureolin underwash. Adding a touch of Aureolin into the wash produces a magical finish.


 

Fall Cottonwood Mix

Fall Cottonwood Mix

...Wow! Be sure to let it move downward to create the hanging yellow leafy limbs.

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Last Light: A Demonstration With Jan
"We gather around as I begin the demo. The afternoon shadows play upon the face of the white and salmon pink rocks Georgia O'Keeffe first brought to the world's attention over 50 years ago. The meander and rhythm of the light fascinates me as I do a quick value/composition sketch."

Where to start?
"My students know my motto-'Lightest, Brightests or Scariest, first!'"

"While I do an all over underwash of Aureolin Yellow-for the pervasive New Mexico sunlight-we decide to start with the rock! I explain that I'll use mostly sedimentary or granular pigments to help describe the sandstone layers. I mix many of the paints on the paper so I can have the joy of watching them dance together! Most of my painting will be done using my favorite brush, Daniel Smith's 1" Series 22-09 on Lanaquarelle 140 lb. cold pressed paper taped to a board."

Do you ever start with the sky?
"I do if the painting is about the sky. Because in this painting the rock is the focus and I want the value of the shaded white rock to be just slightly lighter than the sky, I choose to add the sky later. I know I'll be able to better adjust the sky value to the rock than vice versa."

"I start with the whitish upper layers, treating the shaded part with mixture #1 while slowly adding more Cobalt Blue as the rock emerges into the light-for the core shadow. I just cannot resist adding a bit of Aureolin to the blue to watch them mix."

What about all the crevices and cracks?
"I'll leave most of those to the end when the pigments' natural variations can best show me where to place them. Meanwhile, I just suggest the uneven surface, wet in wet-sparingly."

"On to the lower red layers...I paint in horizontal ribbons using various sedimentary and/or other pigments, taking care to go lightly over the sun-lighted area. I used mixes #2, #3, #4 plus passages of Rose Madder Genuine-leaving some white horizontal slivers to accentuate the layers. I paint around the tree shapes and carry some of the lightest mixes onto the foreground-around some of the trees and through some of the others."

What if you think the colors are too light or not bright enough?
"Will you add more paints now? No. I know that at the end I'll be adding the cast shadows, which will significantly darken the shaded areas of the rocks. I'd rather keep the rock passages fresh and clean than worry too much about them now. I can make adjustments later. "Delayed Gratification"-mantra of the watercolorist!"

"It is time to put in some of the darkest dark so that I can begin to see the entire value range of the painting. I need to get into the foreground trees and vegetation."

What greens do you use?
"I like to mix all my greens. My favorite mixes for the dark pine trees and piņons is #5 and #6, which can be cooled with the Ultramarine Turquoise or warmed with the Quinacridone Burnt Orange for the shady vs. sunny sides of the tree. I begin each tree on the sunny side with oranges or yellows and add the bluer tones as I move into shade. As I continue with the vegetation, I take opportunities to add #6 and #7 greens, always mixing on the paper and allowing the pigments to mix on their own as much as possible. While I paint the greens I remember to put in some maroon and/or Burnt Sienna (#8) for life."

"Now-on to the sky so that the entire paper is covered..."

What blue will you use for the sky?
"Well, I will have to think about that. To keep the painting predominantly warm, I may need to do something else-like use more yellow in the sky, especially at the horizon to contrast with the foreground. I'll use #9."

"Turning the paper upside down and slanting it toward me, I apply Aureolin to the entire area above the foreground. Then I brush in Cobalt Blue for the upper sky, watching as it dries. Turning the painting back around, I decide to apply pale Cobalt Blue brush strokes to the lower horizon for the distant hills. I add in a bit of Quinacridone Gold with a drier brush for fun and variety."

What's next?
"We've come to what I call "Adolescence"-a point when most paintings are given up on or thrown away. But really, it is a time to stand back and see what's working, what's not working and decide what to do about it."

"After the "Adolescent Critique," I know I need contrast and to get into the cast shadows! I mix up a puddle of #10 for the predominant shadow color. The transparent lavender to blue glaze will allow the beautiful under-passages of sedimentary paints to show through. I begin at the top right and slowly and carefully move the paint horizontally back and forth down the page taking care to create an interesting edge to the shadow as well as the lighted trees below. As long as #10 wash remains wet, I can tuck in or accentuate with some darker, drier paint. I go on to create interesting patterns and passages of #10 horizontally across the path, using it to delineate vegetation edges and suggest land flow. Into these shadow shapes I dash other colors-Cobalt Violet, Quinacridone Pink, Cobalt Blue, Aureolin, Ultramarine Blue-even Buff Titanium-all the paints I've used before in this painting-for continuity and fun!"

Do you ever use a smaller brush for detail?
"I like to try to use only my 1" flat brush because it keeps me loose and practicing what I call "Dancing Strokes"-flipping gestural strokes of dark into the light with the edge of the brush, taking care to create variety. Sometimes, though, I do use a small round for particular details and more control."

How do you decide what details to put in?
"I squint and let the painting make suggestions. A too-flat area suggests the creation of a slightly darker passage-which can be accomplished with a crack. I'll do one and then decide if I need more."

"I know that a crack from top to bottom will help tie the painting together and further suggest shadow transparency. Taking care to choose an area that already suggested a fracture, I create a vertical "line" that extends from the top to disappear behind a tree. The "line" shape varies with the rock layers and colors. It gets wider, narrower, changes color, skips, and crosses from the light into the shadowed rock area. I add a few other suggestions of irregularities on the rock surface and just cannot resist lifting a sliver of light from the tip of the "light dagger" to the tree. Connection."

"I go on to soften some edges here and there, add vitality to the darks-and for dessert ... a few well-placed color notes to add a bit of zing! A few dabs of Cobalt Turquoise in the front left tree; a hint of Perinone Orange or Organic Vermilion in a rock crevice; a touch of Cerulean in the foliage shadows."


 

Scale

Why Paints Work the Way They Do
Explaining Organic and Inorganic Pigments
"In my workshops, I'm often asked about the diferences between these two types of pigments, as well as the different ways they behave in painting."

What are organic pigments?
"These pigments contain carbon. Organic pigments are usually bright, pure, light in weight and rich in tinting strength. They are made up of carbon atoms, which form strong, stable chemical bonds and are always present in animal, vegetable and synthetic organic chemistry."

"There are three kinds of organic pigments: Pigmentary colors; Metal salt pigments, or toners; and Lakes."

"Pigmentary colors are insoluble, inherently colored organic pigments."

"Toners and lakes start out as soluble particles sometimes called dyes. To function as pigments, the dyes are chemically or electrically fixed to particles of inert colorless pigment such as alumina trihydrate. Because they're not very lightfast, metal salts and toner pigments are not used in Daniel Smith paints, but some manufacturers of artists' paints do use them."

"Lakes are used in the food industry and every now and then in artists' colors. Alizarin Crimson is an example. (Anthraquinoid Red is a more lightfast alternative.)"

How are natural and synthetic organic pigments different?
"Natural organic pigments are derived from vegetable or animal extracts. They are the original, less permanent versions of certain well-known colors. Sepia, for example, used to be made from mollusk ink sacs and Carmine was extracted from the cochineal beetle. Indian Yellow, Indigo and Sap Green were originally derived from plants. Rose Madder Genuine still is. Ivory, Bone and Vine Blacks were made from the ground charcoal of burnt ivory, bone and certain kinds of wood."

"Before the 1850s most organic pigments were natural in origin, but with advances in organic chemistry, the vast majority have been replaced with synthetic organic pigments-some of which simulate hues found in the natural organics. The physical form and shade of synthetic pigments can be controlled much more predictably than their natural counterparts, and they tend to be more lightfast and offer a much broader range of color. Today's synthetic organic colors include vivid, permanent phthalos, quinacridones and perylenes, among others."

How do you use them?
"It varies according to the pigment."

"Staining organic pigments include the Phthalos, Alizarin Crimson, Anthraquinoid Red (a more lightfast substitute for alizarin), Permanent Magenta, Prussian Blue, Hansa Yellow, Hooker's Green, Indigo, Payne's Gray, Perinone Orange and the Quinacridones (which also have transparent characteristics)."

"Despite the generally more uniform pigment particle size, there are a few sedimentary organics, such as Ultramarine Blue, Ultramarine Violet and Cerulean Blue."

"Transparent organic pigments include Rose Madder Genuine, Viridian, and the Quinacridones, which make wonderful glazes."

What are inorganic pigments?
"These pigments contain metals. They include the classic earth colors, DANIEL SMITH PrimaTek™ and Historic Mineral colors, cadmiums and cobalts. Mined from the earth or created in the lab using metallic compounds, inorganic pigments can be transparent, translucent or opaque and are made of distinctively shaped particles with inherent color."

"Most of the mined colors have been available to artists since prehistory, while many of the lab-created colors have been available for 100 years or more. Inorganic pigments tend to be opaque, dense, heavy in weight and completely permanent."

What's the difference between natural and synthetic inorganic pigments? "The natural earth colors or crude ores (ochres, umbers, siennas) are mined directly from the earth. Their rich colors come from iron oxides and hydroxides, copper, chromium or aluminum, along with various amounts of clay, chalk and silica. Daniel Smith offers an unusually broad range of distinctive earth colors. When earth colors are roasted or calcined, their usual color becomes warmer and deeper, and produces different hues. For example, calcined Raw Sienna creates Burnt Sienna."

"The synthetic inorganic pigments are primarily metallic compounds manufactured in the laboratory. They include Cobalt Blue, Manganese Violet, Cadmium Yellow and Zinc White. These laboratory creations contain fewer impurities and have smaller particles than their natural mineral counterparts. They tend to produce smoother, less sedimentary washes than the natural inorganics."

How are inorganic pigments used in watercolor paintings?
"Their uses are as varied as the colors. Often I use the inorganic pigments more for their qualities in a mix than for their color-i.e. a touch of cobalt violet in a mix adds very little color, but promotes interesting sedimentation. Buff Titanium dives into a still wet area on the paper, and moves the other pigments around. Nickel Azo also dives through the painted passage and creates a new form-wonderful in autumn trees! Sedimentary inorganic colors include all the earth pigments such as Venetian Red, Cadmium Orange, Cobalt Green, Cobalt Violet, Nickel Azo, Lunar Earth, Lunar Red Rock. The transparent inorganics such as Cobalt Blue and Aureolin (Cobalt Yellow) are wonderful for layered glazes, giving the beautiful sense of transparency and depth watercolor is famous for."


Jan Hart's Amazing Mixes

Here are the twenty colors used in Jan's demonstration - packed and ready to go! Save off the regular price.

Jan Hart's Amazing Mixes Watercolor Set
Twenty 15 ml Tube Set

About the Author
Ten years ago Jan Hart decided to move to the light and sunshine in New Mexico after 8 years in Seattle. She chose the town of Espaņola on a map - for its centralized location. Jan now makes her home at a former turkey ranch she calls Ranchito San Pedro. From her home, she can freely search the landscape for her next painting inspiration. As a self-supporting artist, Jan Hart continues to teach watercolor from her studio at Ghost Ranch near Abiquiu, and from other places that beckon. Her home at Ranchito San Pedro also serves as a modest Bed and Breakfast. Jan has finally completed her dream of providing Artist/Vacation Cabins especially suitable for artists and travelers interested in the spectacular landscapes and destination points all around Espaņola.

2002 brought a long envisioned dream into reality. "The cabins are truly lovely - and just what I hoped I'd find when I moved here" says Jan. She is currently working on a book based upon her workshops and classes in New Mexico.

 


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